Author Archives: S.A.H.

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About S.A.H.

Cycling. Espresso. Photography. Words. Travel. Aimlessness.

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Tallahassee, Florida. The first days of sunshine I’ve had since the day I left Jacksonville. It’s a relief for sure, even if I don’t feel like I’m getting much rest being here. I suffered a flat rolling into the city, about seven miles from downtown. The end result was near to a couple hours of pushing my bike and finally getting a ride from a Warmshowers host with whom I am staying tonight, the fifth of December.

The following day was spent making phone calls to various bike shops asking about tubes before I found one who didn’t have what I was looking for, but promised what he did have would work with my particular wheel size. So far, so good. However, on installing the tube I discovered that my very expensive pocket pump no longer pumps. That is to say it is now an expensive, useless piece of garbage. Good for shoving up someone’s ass, to be sure…. Well, an email’s just been sent, so I should be able to get it warranty replaced. The question is then, when and where.

I’ve met some fabulous people and eaten at some excellent places since being in town though—sunny weather, sunny people?—one of whom is an ex-pro cyclist with the features of a bird of prey, an attitude to match, and a razor-sharp focus who runs a 501(c)(3) called The Bicycle House. The premise behind it is to get transportation (bicycles) to the poor, homeless, poverty-stricken of Tallahassee, and then to provide a space with tools, parts and the like to service their bikes and to educate them so that they can diagnose and service their own bikes when a problem arises. The second aim of the organization is to create a sort of club house atmosphere in order to bring together the disparate members of the community around a common thread—that being that bicycles are the best form of transportation—in order to create a unity, and to bridge the divide between the poor and the not-poor.

Running any kind of non-profit is a difficult and at times thankless job, particularly when those people, the haves, mainly see their bike as a means of recreation because they own a car, and less as a utilitarian tool, that is a mode of transportation, a way for a person to support his/herself, and possibly a family, at a job across town while not bleeding out money in the form of a car payment, gas, insurance, and repairs for what would most likely be a junker. The entire enterprise is a tricky affair, even disregarding attempting to bring together these people for whom a bicycle is seen in such different lights.

He’s currently moving into a new warehouse in the same industrial park as the current one, and I’ve given him a bit of a hand. Hundreds of bicycles in different states of disrepair piled into a U-Haul and driven thirty yards to the new building, unloaded, and the process repeated. Add to that the piles of wheels and sundry other items and it becomes a seemingly never-ending task—Sisyphus pushing the boulder up the hill. But he’s motivated and determined, of that there is no doubt, so I’m confident that he’ll achieve his goal and get the place open again. What he really lacks is hands to regularly contribute to speed the whole process.

If Tally lacks in one thing, it is a great cafe serving great coffee. But it does have one man, Journeyman Coffee, doing good stuff—Coffee on the Porch, as it’s called—even if that good stuff is primarily at his house and lacks a regular schedule and is pretty much comprised of a group of only six or so individuals. I was in contact with Jason for some time via Instagram, so when he notified me that he would be hosting that event the Saturday I was in town, I knew I had to go. And was I ever glad I did because as it turns out my new pump took much much longer than I anticipated to arrive.

That Saturday rolled around, and I had just spent my first of two nights in a pretty crummy hostel located on the west end of FSU, after spending my first four nights in Tally with a few different, great, Warmshowers hosts. Coffee on the Porch was only to last a few hours as it’s more of a coffee tasting and round table discussion and, as I mentioned, takes place at his house. Not at all a proper business venture. Just a casual thing that is donations-based and really just for fun and the mutual sharing of a passion Well, anyway, I arrived about halfway through and missed a few coffees, but got there in time for a bombshell of an experimental coffee that had been harvested, natural processed, roasted, then re-fermented in a Russian imperial stout with raspberries for four months before being dried again and finally roasted. Unreal! Crazy banana and berry flavors, and a sort of funkiness (in a good way) that I couldn’t place that was reminiscent of alcohol and the sort of earthiness one tastes in a wet-hulled Sumatran coffee. It was GREAT. And this experience wasn’t even the best part of the coffee tasting. I made a new friend there. We ended up talking bikes, bike parts, bike-packing, and coffee for a while, then arranged a meet-up at Ology, a brewery in the area for later that evening. This was where I met his girlfriend, now also a good friend, and my guess would be that with her consent I was invited to stay at their place. This ended up being a serendipitous piece of luck (or fate) partly because a friendship was born, but also because it took over a week for my pump to arrive, and so I was spared the fate of having to decide between buying a cheap pump and going on my way, or spending more money staying at the filthy hostel, OR potentially bouncing around between different Warmshowers hosts. I certainly spent more money staying in Tally longer, but it was well worth it, and would still have been had it been necessary that I stay longer still. As it was it was a rather sad departure, but I left with a confidence that we’d get together again somewhere, sometime.

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Perseverance. It’s something I’ve been thinking about lately, during these early days on this bike trip. Though, recently (very recently) my spirits have picked up. I have a few places to stay for free in Tallahassee, thank Providence, and I’m catching a lift with a guy I contacted through Warmshowers, with whom I may also be staying, to Scot’s place tonight. But it’s been a  pretty crummy three out of four days so far, what with the rain, and wearing this backpack while cycling. But anyway, perseverance. What is perseverance? According to the dictionary perseverance is “steadfastness in doing something despite difficulty or delay in achieving success,” and its origins are rooted in “the late Middle English: from Old French perseverer, from Latin perseverareabide by strictly,’ from perseverusvery strict,’ from per– ‘thoroughly’ + severussevere.'”

Now we must ask why persevere? And the answer to that is going to require some thought. One really only needs to persevere when he is without joy, without enjoyment, without, perhaps, happiness in the moment of the doing of the thing, and so the question arises why persevere, why not stop, why not do something which is enjoyable instead of suffering needlessly? Does a person see that the ends is so great, is going to bring such greater satisfaction than, say, doing something else, whatever that might be, that to suffer through the means to get to that ends, one perseveres for that reason? But how does one know that the achievement is at least as commensurate with, if not greater than, the suffering in getting to that ends?, because, after all, one is not at the ends until one is at the ends, that is, he has completed his task.

Is there some sort of nobleness in suffering? Certainly not all suffering is noble because much suffering is fruitless, or, even worse, pointless, senseless and stupid, and what that is these things is noble? The answer is nothing, for nobility is “having or showing fine personal qualities or high moral principles and ideals”. But, I suppose, if one has a noble aims, then suffering for that aims, even if one doesn’t achieve them, may be considered noble, so that one can suffer nobly. But even still, to suffer nobly, is that worthwhile? Is there not anything one could do that is just as worthwhile, more worthwhile, or even slightly less worthwhile where one doesn’t have to suffer quite so much, or at all?

Some people, and I’m thinking of cyclists in particular, or at least those who race and so want to perform at a high level, seem to enjoy the suffering. But what if you don’t win the race? What if you don’t podium? What if, even, your prestigious teammate did not win or podium, and your job was to ensure that he did, to contribute to the effort as Team Member? Does that make you a failure then? And did that make your suffering, the suffering you supposedly enjoy, worthwhile or noble? Or was it pointless? Can you hold your head up despite your disappointing finish?, for there is certainly something noble in maintaining one’s dignity in the face of defeat.

So then, I turn back to myself. I look in the mirror, so to speak. Am I persevering? I think the answer is yes because this trip hasn’t been particularly enjoyable to this point. Do I have a noble aims? I suppose one could say so. Perhaps I should ask if the aims are worth the suffering. The truth is, and I answered this earlier, I don’t know. I CAN’T know. I’m pretty certain that I will be happy with something that I write, and I’m equally certain that there will be a number of excellent photographs resulting from this trip, though what I am to do with any of these things I can’t say. So far all my past photography and writing has amounted to nil. So, if this continues one could probably say that this trip is worthless, and that I am wasting my time, and there is certainly nothing noble in that. Yet again one can say that what I do with this writing and photography in the future is irrelevant to the current travels, particularly if I take the stance that I am merely digging up the raw ore to be forged into a beautiful work later on. And I think that’s the most sensible way of looking at this (it’s certainly the easiest way to justify it!). Also, the journey is still young, only five days or so, so I too think that it would be a bit premature to call it quits so early; the bad weather can’t continue forever….

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“Rolling” Into Tallahassee

Should I apologize to myself or forgive myself for my incompetence this day? This I am thinking as I have an imaginary conversation with Scot, my Warmshowers host for tonight. I am imagining him picking me up as I’m walking into downtown Tallahassee pushing my bike with a flat tire.*

So I’m walking into town pushing my bike imagining this conversation we’re going to have because he’s going to call me to find out where I am because I’m taking so long, and I’m going to tell him that I couldn’t Uber to the bike shop because no Ubers had space for my bike and bags, nevermind the fact that I haven’t bothered to signal an Uber because how should I know if my bike will fit or not and are there consequences for this if the bike does not fit (like do I get charged something for wasting this person’s time), therefor I wasn’t able to make it to the bike shop before it closed so I just continued walking to his place and then he will find me somewhere along the way and pick me up. Or I’ll just arrive really late and be like “hi, I’m here,” and laugh and the whole thing will just be stupid because IT IS.

Tallahassee is very hilly, and I’m trying to ride my bike on the downhills in the grass. I’m tired of it though because I’m on my bike for a solid ten seconds (maybe) then I’m hopping not entirely gracefully (not that there is anything graceful about half riding a bike with a flat tire in the grass plot between the curb and the sidewalk) off because the grass is interrupted by a concrete driveway, then I proceed to hop back on, then off again…. It’s very tiresome after a few times, and honestly hard to determine if it’s even that much more efficient (it is slightly, but not so much so that it’s worth the effort, especially after fifty miles of cycling on a loaded bike).

*why do I have a flat tire? Simple. I’m running tubeless and, thinking this would be sufficient, (it was for over 600 miles back home) failed to bring a spare just-in-case tube with me. Well, the sealant didn’t work this time, I don’t think. I am now uncertain about this because after I did procure a tube I found to my astonishment that my very expensive, and relatively new, pump would not pump up the tube. So who knows. If the pump had worked properly I may have been able to pump the tire back up.

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I’ve taken refuge tonight at the Unity House Bed & Breakfast, an unassuming, nineteenth century house located on a side street in downtown Madison. I was soaked again earlier today just after I had finished my lunch break of an hour and a half. It only rained for twenty or thirty minutes, but my stubbornness and consistent feelings of resignation at being soaked prevented me from moving off the road and finding some sort of shelter beneath a tree that would have availed me of being drenched, and even though upon arriving in Madison I was not as wet as I had been, the weather service is calling for storms tonight and I’m simply not keen on trying to sleep through that in my tent just to save some cash and then have to put on cold, wet clothes the next morning.

I was, as usual, in agonies over making a decision because of the high cost of accommodation so early on in the trip (paid lodging for three of four nights so far), but once the decision was made and I was firmly inside the bed and breakfast, with my bicycle rolled into a corner and my bags strewn in a semblance of organization around it, and receiving the grand tour of the place, I was near to ecstasy. To have made a decision! What a triumph! What a weight lifted from my shoulders! The hell with the money. I can earn more later, doing something, anything if I have to, but for now to be reclining in a stuffed chair in a warm room with food in my belly (which I cooked on my campstove in the bathroom of my bedroom), and to know that the money is spent and there’s no possible way to get it back, I am CONTENT, like a fat dog on the hearth of a lighted fireplace.

My room exudes coziness. The queen-size bed is nearly chest-high so that I nearly have to climb into it, and thrusts itself well into the center of the room. The thick memory-foam mattress is piled high with numerous pillows, There are two tables, each with a lamp, on either side of the bed, and an armoire against the wall opposite. Near to the bed is the rather large, comfortable chair I am lounging in, my feet resting on a sort of attached ottoman. There is a flatscreen tv which I will not use on a table against the wall opposite me. The closet is filled with women’s clothing. The floor hardwood stained dark, and a soft light effuses the room through the tall windows draped with lace curtains. In the bathroom my wet clothes are spread about various fixtures, hanging from hooks, etc., drying. All is peace.

Not all was peace today, though. In some places along the way I wondered if peace ever came. Not long after leaving Lake City I passed a Native American church: Broken Lands Native American church to be exact. What peace may be found there? Certainly none in the name. Is it found in the two half-built teepees on the property? Mere skeletons with no flesh, no skin, just a pile of lumber leaning against each other in the shape of a cone, as if by doing so they might manage to stay upright, and lashed together at the top. If there was any peace there it would not stay for long. Perhaps there was peace in the two crumbling, dilapidated hovels that I suppose served as the church proper for whoever worshipped there, but the doors were left swinging ajar, and windows open. Some perhaps shattered. But, too, there appeared little to keep peace contained within. Could it somehow be captured in the three rundown, decrepit, old cars in the lot, parked between the unfinished teepees and the church? None of those looked as if they might run. It appeared as though someone had parked them there years ago and promptly forgot about them. I just don’t think one could find peace in any of those three cars.

On the other hand there is no physical thing that can be representative of the glory of God. Or I should say all things, all places are representative of the glory of God. They are all the glory of God from the lowliest dung beetle (if one sees the dung beetle as for some reason being lowly, as opposed to quite marvelous and magical), to the noblest of humans, say Thailand’s king, or the queen of England (as though birthright means anything in the grand scheme of it all). That said, one can worship or meditate anywhere and find peace there. Often I think I can find more peace in a fingernail clipping than I might find in one of these ostentatious mega-churches that are popping up all over the place. Costs a lot less to build too. Powder it up. Turn it into a wafer. This is MY body. Go worship in your monolithic church, crosses gilded in gold, and the wine unwatered; or go worship at broken lands, broken dreams, broken hopes, and broken promises; it makes no difference. Go to the swamp. Sit under a tree. Lie in a prairie full of wildflowers. It makes no difference so long as you know peace and you feel peace. What’s important is the you, not the it (the thing), for you become it when you project yourself onto it, whatever it is….

A little bit farther along I espied what appeared to have once been a home beneath a magnificent Live oak with Spanish moss hanging from its branches, surrounded by vegetation, covered in vegetation, looking rather rotten and squalid, but looking magical just the same, covered as it was in moss and lichen and vines, green things growing out of its gutters, and that magnificent Live oak with its limbs spread wide over the hovel as if protecting it or wishing to embrace it. It would make a great place to squat or camp as well hidden as it is, what with the forest grown up all around it. I damn near missed it pedaling along. Had to come to a screeching halt as I just happened to glance over at it beneath the trees.

Later on I passed a manor of sorts. Manor Hill or some such thing on 90. Huge property stuck full of pine trees, beneath the pine trees tarps, beneath the tarps bails of pine needles. I’d never seen such a thing. Will have to research it…. Research done. Easy. Apparently pine needles are bailed (called “pine straw”) and used as mulch.

 A little further along I stopped for lunch in Live Oak, at a panaderia (a Mexican bakery). The young woman, who I took for the proprietor, as it’s called Sandy’s, is maybe in her late 20’s or early 30’s. She seemed excited to see me. I saw this look in her eyes as I walked in and she greeted me from behind the counter while at the same time walking around from behind it of “Oh, this guy doesn’t know what he’s getting himself into here.” Of course I could have, in an alternate universe, spoken Spanish quite well. But of course this is not an alternate universe; it is this one in which I speak very, very little Spanish. She was very helpful in a way that seemed to give her pleasure; I suppose this would be called “hospitality.” There was a warmth in her smile and an engagement with me in describing the menu items that one doesn’t experience often—the delight to delight—partly, I guess, because she was a fluent English speaker (and rightly guessed that I was not a fluent Spanish speaker and so was also likely unfamiliar with the menu) and Sandy’s predominantly serves the Latino population in and around town—though there was an enormously, effusively appreciative white man in his sixties there too, who needed to make a phone call and send some money which she helped with—so I think she WANTS more white people to come in and have a pleasant experience, which as a business owner makes sense because she should want to maintain the profitability of her business. In this case though, I think there was more to her helpfulness than simply the financial aspect. There is also, I assume, the desire to be accepted as a Latino and a Latino-run business in this small American town (thinking of the socio-political climate of the nation today, particularly with Trump in office), and also the desire for her bakery and eatery to serve more than just the Latino population, (because this creates a sort of cultural friction) but to serve a multi-cultural community. Of course in order to do this it takes some courage and curiosity on the part of non-Latinos to bother going in. And if both of these qualifications aren’t meant there exists this subtle tension, which of course is all mental, but just because its mental doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist. Furthermore, the more one looks at something as a “they” or “them” place and not an “us” place, the greater that tension becomes. This would, I think, be a more prominent issue in a small town rather than a city, not that it doesn’t or can’t exist in cities because it does there too under certain circumstances, but in a small town there’s no hiding it. In a city it can be sort of swept under the rug, so to speak. All of this is a bit of an assertion on my part of course. She didn’t show any preference to me, and she didn’t ignore those (Latinos) already there ahead of me, but she simply saw the need to help someone who perhaps was in need of aid in navigating the menu, for I’m certain there had to have been a look of unfamiliarity on my face.

Anyway, once things were explained to me good and proper, and my order was placed, I found a seat at the bar, and then a man older than her—perhaps her father, or maybe HE was the owner, or maybe even just an employee, and maybe not her father at all—cooked my food, and it was really good, basic Mexican fare: a torta which is basically a griddled Mexican sandwich, and may be filled with a variety of things: meats, eggs, jalapeños, mayonnaise, cheese, pickles, onion, etc. Not something I would ordinarily eat, and certainly not healthy, but I make exceptions when traveling in this fashion sometimes, and to have met those people at that tiny eatery it was a joyous occasion I think, and at the time I also thought it would make for a most excellent cultural exchange, which it did, and so was justifiable. And it was not long, twenty minutes in fact, after I finished my lunch and was on my way again that the rain began again.

But I’m here! In comfort and resignation!, as I wrote earlier. My laptop is resting beside me, and I’m still ensconced in the same cushy chair. I’m watching a short video of a couple who are visiting Martin Heidegger’s cabin in the Black Forest in Germany. They describe a ritual that he would practice regularly each morning upon opening the cabin door and setting foot outside, of collecting water in a white bucket from a nearby trough of a hollowed out log that was fed by a pipe projecting from the hillside. And each morning he would take this bucket of his and collect his water for the day, or morning, or whatever, and this was all part of finding and cultivating a connection with nature, with the land that his cabin was built on and was a part of. 

According to the couple, or the man, Heidegger had a distaste, or disgust, for the Socratic idea of the duality of man, which is the separation of mind and body, that they are not a whole but are distinct and separable. I think more commonly people think of the; at least in a religious sense, which is what I was thinking of while watching this portion of the video (because it seems obvious to me that mind and body are not dualistic); separation of body and spirit. This is generally assumed as true in Western religions such as Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. I’m for thinking body and spirit are one, though. The body is no different from the spirit; it is the spirit. And now I’m pondering Indra’s Net which, at its simplest, is the Buddhist philosophy of the interconnectedness of all things, the multi-dimensional spiderweb. There is a lecture by Alan Watts, called Buddhism as Dialogue, in which he speaks of Indra’s Net, and there is a line in there, and I quote, “That’s the meaning of Indra’s net. So that, this is called in Zen, to take up a blade of grass and use it as a golden Buddha 16 feet high.” Inside that blade of grass are contained all things, and Heidegger’s bucket it seems to me is a metaphor for this. This connectedness to nature, this mind-body-spirit meld, Indra’s Net, the blade of grass, and the golden Buddha 16 feet high. His white bucket is the blade of grass, it is the golden Buddha. It is perfect.

There is another quotation of Heidegger’s cited in the video that I feel is strongly relevant to me now: “By confronting what is often anxiety producing we gain our freedom from living a life just like everyone else, and our lives become our own.” And so this bike trip is a thing which I think defines me in that manner. It is at times anxiety producing, uncomfortable, not pleasurable, but it is my freedom, and it, among other pursuits, separates me from the herd. But is this important? This idea of Heidegger’s, I mean, not the trip. The trip is obviously of importance. Actually, scratch that. I don’t know that this trip is important at all. But then I’m one to question the importance of all things, of everything. So, should this idea matter? Is the herd inherently bad (not that Heidegger is explicitly implying that)? When one thinks of a herd of animals one thinks of protection and safety in numbers, the preservation of the species, etc. But the term “the herd” used in reference to humans is generally connoted as negative, as a bunch of lemmings walking off a cliff, as self-destructive, as a group of people feeding off each other, being only informed by each other and thus being siloed from other ideas and ways of thinking and so being ill-informed, incompletely informed, or outright misinformed; or essentially acting in the manner of dumb beasts which we are purportedly above (at least in intelligence), forming a circle, some facing inward heads hidden away, some facing outwards teeth bared, ready to lash out with horn or hoof at an offender of “the doctrine.” Yet, can these people be blamed?, especially when one takes into consideration the inbred objective of all animals, humans included, which is the preservation of life (and with that comes the preservation of all things dear to or associated with that person, and thus the group) and the continued reproduction of the species (this is simply the desire for sex, regardless of whether you want to produce a child or not). These people are simply protecting themselves. So you can see why they (the herd) might be looked down on by a more intellectual “elite” who have a greater capability of thinking for themselves (though these types often end up doing the exact same thing as the group they’re looking down on, and rejecting any idea that wasn’t propagated by their own or which threatens their own set of rules and ethics (the irony!). I think the best thing a person can do for himself is to intermingle, to raise herself beyond the fray, to understand both sides, but these people are rare. They’re also often the least judgmental of people because they have no doctrine to defend. Their doctrine is essentially the doctrine of no doctrine, or of everyone’s doctrine, because often multiple groups have valid perspectives and valid points to make (even if one has to dig for them). They’re also usually not so concerned with self-preservation, and as a result they have nothing to lose. This creates a fluidity in their interactions with these various groups and factions that those members of the groups don’t have outside of the group.

Anyway, I’ve written much, and thought deeply about this, and am frankly tired, and what happened to this travel blog? I think it is time to turn in.

To anxiety! To freedom! To the white bucket! To defining one’s own life! Joy to all the world!

Jacksonville: A Sort of Practical Guide

I want to create some practical posts on my experiences of and discoveries in various cities I pass through on this journey of mine as a way to potentially give to others an idea of places they might want to visit should they happen to visit these cities. This is not going to be all encompassing as I will most likely not be in most of these cities for more than a few days (Tallahassee so far being an exception), and the intentions of this journal are not that of a typical travel blog or travel guide. I just wish to provide some links and relate my experiences of these cities, neighborhoods, cafes, etc.

Jacksonville, Florida was my first stop. Really, the beginning of my trip and the end of any sort of normalcy and familiarity to my previous life in Maryland. Everyone, to my best recollection, I’d met in Jacksonville, and other people I’ve talked to here in Tallahassee have the same opinion of the city of Jacksonville; that it’s essentially a giant, soulless, sixty mile sprawl and not worth one’s time. Interesting then that I managed to stumble, in my one day there, into the most lively, sunny, homey, comfortable, and best (at least according to those who live there) neighborhood in the city. This particular neighborhood abuts another which is also well-regarded based on my reading of it ahead of time, so I will regard them as nearly a whole. Too, I had dinner the one night I was there in a fairly bustling part of the city, but with that being the only time spent there it’s not fair for me to reflect much on the area itself, but only the restaurant.

The neighborhoods of Five Points, and Riverside are by all accounts the best in the city. Most of my time was spent in Riverside at a single cafe, as well as at a cafe/roasters on the boundary of Riverside and Five Points because when traveling one of course needs a place to write, work, drink coffee, and eat, and neighborhood cafes are often the best for this. Riverside/Five Points also happens to have one of the best independent bike shops in the country, Zen Cog Bicycles. It’s a small space jam-packed with goodies from Salsa Cycles, Surly, Kona, Chris King, Brooks England, and others. Also, the employees are friendly, helpful, amicable people as well, curious about my plans and travels, and sharing their own experiences too. It is an absolute must-visit for any cyclist in the area, particularly any touring cyclists.

Of the two cafes I spent time in, Southern Roots Filling Station was my favorite by far, and is honestly now one of my favorite places to eat in the country after going there on a few different occasions (in the two mornings and single afternoon that I spent in the city). SRFS is a predominantly vegan cafe with happy, friendly people serving incredible food and excellent coffee with a section for bulk purchases of things like rice, oats, nuts, spices, etc. I imagine you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu, but I particularly liked the Blisscuit, the Roots Biscuit, and The Proud Mary. I had a killer vegan coffee cake as well. They were serving Perc Coffee, roasted in Savannah, Georgia and Panther Coffee, from Miami, on espresso, so one is well cared for on the coffee front as well. And thank God for that; there’s not much worse than having to suck down putrid coffee at an establishment serving great food. If you need wi-fi they have that, but are not open late. Think of them as a breakfast/lunch/mid-day snack kind of place.

The other cafe I enjoyed was Bold Bean Coffee Roasters located a stone’s throw from Zen Cog. They have two other locations in the city as well. A big, open space with copious seating and a bar along the window looking out onto the street, as well as some outdoor seating, this is definitely a cafe frequented by the college crowd, but I wouldn’t let that turn you off, particularly if you have work to do. It’s ideal for that, and you’ll feel right at home with the rest of the laptops out.

This is not the location they roast at (as far as I can tell), so if you’re looking to catch a glimpse of that you’ll have to go elsewhere. Aside from that asterisk of information, the coffee is pretty solid for a specialty coffee roaster. They had two different espressos on bar when I was there, and they actually offered a flight on menu, so a single shot of each, which is awesome. I’m not against ordering multiple espressos to taste, but sometimes the excessive amount of caffeine drunk is unnecessary. The two espressos on offer were their Sweet Spot blend, which is a fairly traditional blend of South/Central American coffees—all middle and low notes (dark chocolate and dried fruit) and didn’t really win me over—and a washed Ethiopian which I thought dazzled as an espresso. I also had a Costa Rican pour-over that wasn’t particularly good. To go with the coffee they serve a variety of different pastries that they make in-house, and a small selection of sandwiches.

The last place I feel obliged to write about is Murray’s Taco Bodega on Edgewood Ave in the Murray Hill neighborhood. I can’t say much about the neighborhood as my sum total time spent there was walking the small, but extremely busy, strip of restaurants, shops, and a brewery that had very recently opened before entering Murray’s for dinner. This is a brand new restaurant that had only opened a few days before. Often restaurants are still pretty shaky even the first two weeks to a month after opening, but these guys already have it nailed down pretty well. These were some of the best tacos I’ve had anywhere, and I’ve had some damn good tacos ranging from the states of California to Maryland.

I try to eat as vegan/vegetarian as possible, and it just so happens that they have a few tacos on offer for those like me on that search. A brussels sprouts with black beans, chipotle crema, and roasted garlic taco, and jackfruit, avocado, lettuce and lime crema were on order for me. Perfection. There are two other vegetarian tacos on offer as well, in addition to a slew of tacos for the carni/omnivore (menu hidden in Yelp pictures if you care to look). For dessert: churros and chocolate. Delicious.

To sum up, my experience of Jacksonville was a most excellent one. I happened to land myself in a lively, hip, fun part of the city, well outside of the labyrinth of tower blocks that makes up downtown. The people, culture, food, and drink were all great. My AirBnB experience was merely okay, but I was trying to keep costs down, so with spending a little more money I probably would have had a more enjoyable overnight, as well as had a place a little bit closer to the neighborhoods I found myself hanging about, but it certainly wasn’t bad.

I can’t say anything about the rest of the city, as it extends from the coast sixty miles inland and I haven’t experienced any other parts of it, but perhaps it’s not as bad as most everyone has said it is. However, for those of you who have to go to Jacksonville for whatever reason the Riverside, Five Points, and (maybe) Murray Hill neighborhoods are must-visits.

I hope this is helpful to… someone…

Version 0.03

Today has been an interesting day. By interesting I mean completely and utterly SHITTY. Yesterday was quite nice though. I covered approximately fifty miles over about four and a half hours of cycling. That includes stopping for photographs and having lunch at a Subway, so I made pretty great time. That night I camped in Osceola National Forest near to Ocean Pond, a body of water which is as it sounds—a very, very large pond (basically a lake)—and one which I wanted to visit this morning but didn’t due to waking up to precipitation in the form of water falling from the sky. In truth I didn’t really wake up to much rain but I befriended a fellow, Connor, who was traveling by motorcycle (I thought him much smarter than I), and we struck up conversation which of course slowed my packing considerably. Enough so that by the time I DID manage to cram my belongings into the various bags that they only kind of sort of fit in, including the backpack that was not brought along with this intention, the rain, or the day’s SHITTINESS did truly begin.

It was with a sigh of exasperation and arms in the air with resignation and of course-ness that I wandered off along a hard-packed sandy road to Route 90, which, despite it being designated a “route” or highway, is actually relatively quiet and came complete with a cycling lane.

For twenty or so miles I pedaled. The rain let up some, then came down harder, then let up again, then, as though a zipper was undone along the bottom of some bulging cloud above me, rain came down by the bucketsful (as they say). My back ached from the backpack, my thighs chafed from my soaked bibs, and as I slowed down upon arriving at Lake City (checking for coffee and food resources of any kind from my phone) I began to shiver. Not the best set of circumstances to find oneself in.

As there were no small, specialty or family-owned types of cafes in town, I made my way to a Panera on the far western edge of town, chosen for its wi-fi and the heartier food options than the nearby Starbucks. Well? What else is one to do in this situation?

Anyway. I dined on warm carbohydrates, and was bought a coffee by a woman who cycles, runs and generally speaking stays active. We chatted for a bit and it was apparent that she was genuinely enthused about my trip. It was here, after stripping out of my sopping jacket and jersey for a dry top and my insulated jacket, that I decided to seek refuge for the night at the Driftwood Motel, an appropriately named place for the state I was in. So here I am, in Tallahassee, typing this up as though I was still in that motel with the time to write while my tent and other belongings were strewn about the motel room undampening in a pretended state of organization while I prepared my meh dinner of rice, red lentils, zucchini, garlic, and a few snagged basil leaves from a cart of plants lined up against a fence at Walmart.

Hopefully my things dry out completely overnight, though I’m not counting on that, and any rain tomorrow is spottier and weaker. Twenty miles is a pathetic distance for a day, and I’m rather done with this getting soaked business. I should probably just walk back to the Walmart and buy a poncho (assuming they have any)….

Version 0.02

Well, here I am now. Now… What does that even mean? Isn’t the ‘now’ implied in the “here I am?” Anyway, it’s my first night after leaving Jacksonville. I’m lying in my tent with a swollen bladder but too lazy to get up and do something about it. But I don’t want to write about the current moment, or even this day, just yet. I want to reflect back on the evening before I left. What little there is to reflect on at least.

I was hanging about Lemongrass, visiting with friends/co-workers. I was in a somewhat melancholy mood, rather ambivalent about leaving, and frustrated by the lack of space (or plethora of gear) which was making packing difficult. Then Daniel enters like a firecracker (like pretty much always) chattering about my bike (one could actually see the exclamation marks lingering in the air as they punctuated the ends of each of his statements ) and how good it looks, very excited apparently about my trip which, as I stated, I was not so excited about. 

Normally I find this behavior, shall I say, overwhelming. This evening, however, I enjoyed the show. Perhaps I even needed it, because to be sure it had a rather tonic, salutary effect on me. Revitalized me a bit, as a vitamin does. Interesting, the similarities in those words; vita is Latin for ‘life.’ At any rate, I’m grateful for it. He even asked if he could ride to D.C. with me, to which I of course answered with a “Yes, I’d like to leave around 9:30.” This was apparently far earlier than he had expected, if I am to judge by his response, and so I cycled alone to D.C., which was fine aside from its “hellishness.” The hellishness mainly being the wind, and some the cold. Otherwise it would have been pleasant. It was, however, and maybe more importantly, freeing.

NOW, here I am lying in my tent, fifty some miles west of Jacksonville, looking at the weather forecast. Thunderstorms the next three days. Perfect. The question of course is what to do about that. Options are slim of course: ride through it and get soaked, or ride to Lake City and get a motel. Of course if the rain doesn’t come allllll day I can ride in spurts and take shelter. I have a peculiar love for the very-most-average (or even slightly-below-average), run-of-the-mill motel though….

Well, one thing I can at the very least be happy about is being in The South again. The Live oaks! The Spanish moss! The palms! And every other unidentifiable bit of vegetation! Coming from Maryland, these plant species appear to me as some of the most majestic and wondrous on the planet. The Live oaks with their enormous crowns, limbs stretched out wide so that you wonder how it is that the trees stay in one piece and don’t just split down the center, and the Spanish moss draped over its branches like the shawl of a queen. All of this down here in the warm cool of the winter while up north all is dead-looking, cadaverous, grey, taupe, brown, earth, dry, mere sticks poking out in all directions. Yes, winter in The South, this far south, is a glory to be sure.

Version 0.01

Seated in the lounge car of my train. I am exhausted. I smell. My laptop is open to Google Maps with directions from the Jacksonville Amtrak station to a coffee roasters* I want to visit in the same neighborhood where I hope to stay. There is a bottle of water in front of me, my phone and a copy of Tropic of Cancer as well. The car smells of something baked, like a chocolate chip cookie or a pretzel log. An older, white-haired couple (the lady’s dyed blonde) play cards at a table. She looks bored. Resigned. Other people at other tables converse sincerely, earnestly. None of them were acquainted before sitting together. Fascinating how they’ve come from divergent places yet have been brought together at their respective tables in this car, opposite each other, like, through the window the leafless, spectral trees against a crepuscular sky reflected in glassy swamp water. This is a scene I’ve never seen before, yet I see it all the time and I will never see it again.

Yesterday was, as a friend put it, rather hellish, yet wonderful just the same. That feeling of freedom one gets when traveling by bicycle. It’s undeniable, even when the wind is gusting and fingers and toes are benumbed. I wonder if perhaps it didn’t bother me so much because it was a short day and I knew I’d be in a warm hostel and eating delicious food later that evening. Now I’m led to think about my bike in the luggage car. It doesn’t have a destination tag on it. Will it be there at my stop? Things that aren’t explained…. (it was probably noted in the email I only glanced at that I should get a tag at check-in (I didn’t check in)).

Sitting in this train car writing is also the feeling of freedom. Different though. Less physically exertive. Largely mental. It is the freedom to go into myself, to go into my perception, my truth. To observe and to interpret those observations (observations of the moment, and observations of my memories—observations of observations…) One of the older gentleman has just closed a connect-the-dots book. At first I thought he was drawing with a BIC ballpoint, and I thought “Well, that’s rather skillful!” But now I know he’s just a simpleton. No wonder. He doesn’t look like any artist I’ve ever met. Maybe an accountant or engineer, though wouldn’t engineering be the job of placing the dots so that others might connect them? Maybe a desk clerk of some sort, papers spread over his work space, bills of receiving that he need go over and stamp. Something that one could just as easily have a machine do, and likely will in a few years time, but not just yet. What is the satisfaction of connecting dots anyway? I mean for an adult, not a small child which I think I understand. To bring into relief a picture that someone else has created. I am now reminded of those magic eye pictures which were so popular in the ’90s. Those ones in which a three dimensional image seemed to jump straight out of if one had the perseverance or the vision. A connect-the-dots picture seems very much like that, just without the weird sort of mystery and vague psychedelic experience behind it. Ah well, simple pleasures I suppose.

Back to observing observations. How accurate are they, these memories of mine? How does one even measure accuracy in this case? Accurate in regard to what? To what really happened? But what REALLY happened? These observations, and further, my INTERPRETATIONS of them are peculiar to only me. In truth there can be no measure of accuracy because this is a subjective thing and there is nothing to measure against! This isn’t a court case attempting to ascertain certain facts. There, one lives within the rigid confines of a square—code and law. Here one swims in the ocean of one’s truth with the FREEDOM to move in any direction one wishes, even down beneath the surface (just be prepared to hold your breath).

So travel, no matter how I go abut it is freedom because at the very least it involves diving into myself and drawing what is out into the open in pen on paper. Travel by bicycle adds an additional dimension, that’s all. A wondrous one, but one which is by no means always easy. But too, like writing, one is compelled to drill down into hisself, to, sometimes, dig into ones’ very guts and splay oneself open on the dissecting table. There is no other way lest one go about blindfolded. And who but magicians, tricksters and zen masters *read Heregel’s Zen in the Art of Archery) goes about intentionally blindfolding himself?

Shit, I haven’t written anything but a single line of the previous day yet….

*Bold Bean – it is excellent

On Flying, On Wonder, On the Ambivalence of Being Human

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What is more remarkable: to be above the birds, above the clouds, in flight, lofted and blazing forth like an arrow from a bow from departure point A to destination B?, or creeping slowly along the ocean bottom, nearly blind, feeling feeling, searching searching where there is seemingly, visibly, no life but hoping hoping, fingers crossed, to stumble onto something, something as alien, foreign to us on the surface as a life form found on another planet, in another galaxy lightyears away?

I don’t think there is an answer. At least I don’t have one. But I will never be found huddled in a deep-sea submersible traveling through the inky-black ocean depths on a scientific quest. However, I do find myself occasionally, like right now, sandwiched between layers of clouds, slowly surging upward and out, breaching the tops of these clouds like a whale the surface of the ocean, as do millions of people every year (it seems almost migratory, and for some I’m sure it is). And you look down, through the little plastic window at this whole, strange now, world spread out below, or at least what you can see of it through the cloud shafts, and it looks pallid, sallow and mottled, speckled, like it’s ill, and you wonder what this view from this exact spot was like one hundred, two hundred, five hundred years ago, and you think how the earth looks just like a sickly, elderly person, or a fruit rotting and pimpled with lesions, and you think to yourself “We are a scourge, butchering, and chopping, and bulldozing all in the name of what? Progress? Money? Ego? Inertia? (keeping on keeping on only for the sake of keeping on because having the courage to give up, to dig our heels in until we come to a screeching halt, to throw our hands in the air, and shout out “I’m done with this! This good for nothing!” is simply too much, too difficult, requires too much courage)” When God created man it was a death knell for this world. The Word once spoken became the tolling of the bell in the church by the cemetery.

Still, it is so remarkable to be here, way up here looking down at what is, and maybe imagining what used to be, or spying long meandering rivers like I spy now in their snaking cord-like shapes, and thinking “Now that is the real miracle. Not man’s foolish destructive conquest of the world, taking, taking, taking.” And to marvel at the variety of cloud shapes too! Streaks long and short, staccato dots, impasto spots, clods and hunks, ripples and waves, miles wide smears from a pallet knife, mountain ranges, the surf of ocean waves boiling up onto a beach… Yes, we may be obliterating everything, and ourselves with it, but at least we have the chance to, some of us, peer through the windows of our senses in awe as the plane is going down.

Best or Worst?

I’m still wrapping things up, or, rather, pulling things apart and putting them back together slightly differently. Until that is over I’m still in Annapolis. Should be soon that I leave though. In the meantime the few of you that read this blog can read this passage (not really a passage because it’s not of anything, but I’m considering it a passage of this blog so I can use the term because I like it (and I realize I didn’t have to justify that, but I thought I may, because because)) that I composed some months ago when more and more of the days were rising further and further from their burial chambers, shaking off dark clods of dirt from their brightly shining armor, sword tips piercing upward through the soil alongside new grass and flower blossoms, and voices ringing out singing of warmth and food and sex and life and triumph over the night; and masticate on it, or laugh at me, or do whatever seizes you in the moment of consumption.

Sun dapples all. Splatters the world in colors lobbed through the canopy of leaves above me. I think to myself “to do one’s best is the highest aim of humankind.” But what is one’s best? And when does one know when that effort has been made?

The most wondrous, magical, little fly with a pointed tail and a pale band around its abdomen explores the rim of my coffee mug, and I wonder if it is doing its best. It seems to be getting on just fine regardless. Maybe no one has control over their best or worst. Perhaps I should give up all thought on that and live like this fly. Perhaps I already am—perhaps we all are—if only the thought would be let go, to shatter into dust, permitting me more freely to live more simply and easily like this extraordinary creature.