Version 0.67 (The More Modern, the More Destitute)

05/23/19

Living, living, and living. Hardly writing I am. But am I really even living? Sometimes I wonder this. Writing can be living too, though. Yes?

Kuala Lumpur is a fascinating city (I wrote something similar in my last journal). It  seems to me like the melting pot of Asia. Chinese, Malays, and Indians being the predominant ethnicities here. Thais I think make up the majority of the minority. So, it’s sort of a melting pot, but not necessarily to the degree that one might say the United States is. I haven’t seen more destitute and homeless anywhere since leaving the U.S., though. It seems the more developed a country becomes the more poor and homeless, at least in its cities, it produces. And nuts. It produces more nuts too. This is probably an effect of being homeless, penniless, friendless, having to scrounge and beg for change or food, picking out scraps from trash bins, sleeping on a piece of cardboard on a concrete sidewalk beneath an awning, wearing the same filthy articles of clothing everyday. I recall walking along a sidewalk recently and passing a half-crazed looking woman, who nonetheless did not look poorly dressed, only to hear a crash and the smashing of glass bottles shortly after. I turned around to see that she had overturned a trash can into the street. Only a moment later a blue construction helmet flew out of the bushes lining the sidewalk, then out came this woman who simply proceeded to continue sauntering down the sidewalk like nothing unusal happened. There have been others too: the filthy Indian man sitting on the curb shouting at some imaginary figure—I can only imagine obscenities—the guy on the street corner yesterday, bent in half, face down on the concrete with a metal bowl in his outstretched hands; and the types one sees everywhere, sitting with a paper cup, faces passive, expressionless, barely a glimmer of life in their eyes, their bodies sunken into themselves like a torpedoed and sinking ship. This is life in a modern, developed city. Something I saw less of in Bangkok, and and saw none of my entire time in Vietnam.

Version 0.66 (Travel or Relationship?, Travel or Relationship?, Travel or…)

05/16/19

Five days have passed and I haven’t written a thing. I can’t say that I’ve been that busy. Mostly I have been uninspired. The times, the two since being here in Kuala Lumpur, that I have written anything I find myself daydreaming about something unrelated mid-sentence, mid-paragraph, mid-journal…

Well, anyway, I’ve settled into a sort of routine here, and while I don’t love working at the hostel, I am able to find some joy in it. My co-workers are great, and the people staying here are friendly and likeable. Unfortunately it’s a volunteer position, and while it is a new work experience, new life experience, and a new skill which I can say I’ve learned, it is still only a work exchange. I am stuck here, still without a purpose. Right? So like the purpose of me being here is mainly to save money on accomodation while traveling, but because these positions are usually a one month minimum and because I’ve booked a flight back to Vietnam, despite wanting to see more of Malaysia, I won’t have the opportunity (unless of course I return), and of course this is all my doing because I don’t have to fly back to Vietnam. That Huyen has really put me in a pickle. Bloody women and relationships. The beautiful part of being single is the freedom to go anywhere and do anything one wants without the need to be concerned about the feelings of others (or the change in one’s own feelings). That sentence makes it sound as though I’m only going back to Vietnam for her feelings which isn’t true entirely. I also want to see her again, and see more of the country of Vietnam, but if we didn’t have plans to vacation in Da Lat I would not have just booked a flight a moment ago. I would perhaps travel elsewhere in Malaysia, or go to Indonesia, or India. Well!… I will have the freedom to do some of these things after my trip through Vietnam.

I’ve gone and looked at cryptocurrency charts for a second and thus distracted myself and I don’t know what I am writing about any longer so I guess this is the end. Sometimes I just want to wander off into the desert alone and disappear from society, from everywhere, everything. I’m so angry with myself right now for having got into this relationship. Of course this always happens with my feelings—the slightest glancing touch of negativity results in a cascade of frustration and anger at having allowed for this trip to go this way. I think what I need is some sort of spiritual retreat. I need to step away from the world for a while and recollect myself. This trip was supposed to do that, but having met this girl I feel I’ve been sucked into the world even further. Completely the opposite of my intentions. I’m not happy. I’m not enjoying this trip right now, and so my emotions are constantly oscillating between highs and lows. I’ve had it.

[bit later]
I left the cafe to take a walk, clear my head, and to get some lunch. I am now feeling fine. I work in two hours, but until then I will write a bit and edit some things.

Kuala Lumpur is an interesting city. You can pay as much or as little as you want for food, provided you know where to go for the cheapest stuff. My meals are usually no more than $2-$2.50; I spend more on coffee. My behavior has become that of a person who lives and works here, rather than as a tourst, which, in reality, is what I am doing. All that is missing from my routine is my usual running or cycling, though I’ve not cycled since being in the U.S. I do want to get out of KL to visit a few natural areas for hiking in the coming days.

Version 0.65 (The Chocolate Cafe, and What it Means to be Locally Anything)

05/10/19

The hostel where I am working is next door to a craft chocolate shop. Finally popped in today for a brief visit while on my way elsewhere. Talking to the staff woman there it was interesting to hear her say “this is made with all local cacao.” It just took me a moment to process that because so often in the States I hear about this or that is local even if in reality the ingredients at least are not. Local chocolate and local coffee in the U.S. isn’t all that local. The process of turning the raw ingredients into a finished product may be done locally (local to the retailer, or the customer buying from the retailer), but chocolate (or cacao) and coffee are imported from hundreds or thousands of miles away. To be in a country where to say “this is local” as a product that in the U.S. or, say, Europe or any other non-tropical/sub-tropical region of the world is something exotic (even though coffee and chocolate are two things likely hardly viewed as exotic; colonialism, ahem *cough*) is, really, just kinda neat. There’s nothing truly remarkable for it, except that I have the opportunity to be here. I mean, THAT is truly the remarkable thing.

So, anyway, they have a chocolate tap in their counter that continually flows. I was given a sample of this on a spoon: 72% chocolate, and the rest sugar. Nothing else. It was quite good, and easy to let one’s imagination run rampant with visuals of employees’ (or my own) heads under the faucet, mouths wide open gulping it down. I’m looking forward to returning for maybe a meal or a coffee as they are a full service coffee bar and kitchen as well.

I finished my last training shift at the hostel today, and will officially begin working and being paid (very little) tomorrow. I am now out for a stroll, on the hunt for some coffee and good food as it’s about time for dinner.

Version 0.64 (An Introduction to Kuala Lumpur?)

05/08/19

Well lookie here. New journal for a new country. I have nothing to write about getting to or from airports, into or out of airports, or any normal travel stuff. I’m happy to have left Thailand behind me, because I didn’t much enjoy it, though I think it would be very unfair of me to say it’s not worth visting, or that it’s a “bad” country, whatever that might mean. The circumstances of my travels, and the things I chose to prioritize, coupled with certain details about Bangkok transportation, as well as the circumstances around my stay on Koh Lanta colored everything about my time there. The sole bright spot…. that’s a lie. It’s not the sole bright spot, but it is perhaps the brightest of few (it was also the last point of departure from Thailand, and so remains freshest in my mind), was my all too short stay, one night, in Krabi. However, I will say the hostel was not cheap by Southeast Asia standards, but beauty, and cleanliness, and a/c costs. The owner though, I will say, while not being unfriendly, wasn’t particularly warm. The digs made up for that, however. And the surrounding landscape. I was two miles outside of Krabitown proper, as it’s called, in an area that while still being fairly urban was far enough from the center of town that there was still plenty of grasslands with cows and chickens roaming. And the locals were friendly enough, and the whole section of town, the whole two streets I wandered along briefly, all too briefly, had just such a wonderful, friendly atmosphere, one might even say of joviality. Yes, Krabi, I must say, is one place I would like to revisit for longer.

So here I am in Kuala Lumpur, staying and working at a questionable hostel, one in which I am right now feeling very much ambivalent about. If the manager was even remotely friendly I would feel more comfortable, but speaking to him is like speaking to a corpse; I’m talking to someone completely apathetic. I mean, at least a corpse has a good reason for not caring. It is without working organs, without blood, without hormones, without a central nervous system (or any kind of nervous system). It’s not that it doesn’t care, it’s that it can’t care. I dunno. Maybe Malik is a corpse. He’s a rather fresh looking zombie if that’s the case. Anyway, the city seeems great, and the fact that nearly everyone speaks at least a bit of english, and many signs are in english, and I am much more comfortable making my way around foreign countries now, should make it easy for me to get by here, even if the work exchange is awful. HOWEVER, it has not even been a full twenty-four hours yet. The job should prove simple enough, and the rest of the time I will have to myself. Besides, as I told Huyen, I haven’t signed any contracts. If it’s really so terrible I can just leave. That’s really kind of a last resort though.

Mostly all I’ve done today is ponder about this hostel deal, transit from place to place—hostel in Krabi to airport to airport to hostel in Kuala Lumpur—and wander around KL a bit. Mainly ate some really cheap claypot chicken and rice at a stall on a street in Chinatown, and wandered along a portion of Jalan Petaling, which is a well known street market with nothing to differentiate it from any other street market in S.E. Asia, where one can find knock-off name brands at very cheap prices and very low quality. Everything from purses to belts to shoes shirts hats sunglasses wallets jewelry perfumes…. all underneath brightly colored tarps, or not, depending on what the sun is doing, or not doing. Everything rolled up at the end of the night and taken away to a garage somewhere, or likely a house or apartment where the owner/renter of the stall lives. These sort of streets can be fun to take a stroll down because one never knows who or what he may see or find. Besides that there are almost always street food vendors scattered throughout, and always around entrances and exits. It’s a good time as long as too many sellers aren’t trying to pull you into their “shop,” the rebuffing of whom can get a bit exhausting after a short while.

Version 0.63 (Finding Routine)

05/07/19

Last day on Koh Lanta. Shouldn’t really even be writing that. Ideally I’d be on my way off the island in an hour rather than something like four hours. It’s not a full day here, but that’s not the point. Claudio said he would arrange the minibus for me, then this morning claims he thought I was leaving tomorrow and said something about minibuses being all booked, but maybe I could book something with a travel agent up the street. Not sure if he’s just playing dumb because he doesn’t like my photos, or doesn’t care, or genuinely made a mistake because he didn’t listen to me yesterday. Anyway, the situation is what it is, and I’ve booked transportation myself. I’m staying in Krabi tonight, then a quick drive to the airport the following morning for a short flight to Kuala Lumpur.

I must say I’m happy to get a move on off this island, though I am at last feeling rather comfortable here having developed a bit of a routine. I’m looking forward to a change in structure in my life, and an adjustment in accomodation, though I don’t imagine that it’ll be a huge change; I’m just hoping for consistent air conditioning.

When I first arrived here a whole week ago and showed up at the hostel it wasn’t long before I realized that there was nowhere to find respite from the oppressive heat, at least not in the hostel (until 7pm, when a/c in the dorm rooms was turned on), but it seemed to me that after a day or two of being here there was absolutely nowhere to go, with the exception of a couple of cafes, and this left me with limited time, not a lot of flexibility, and having to formulate a schedule for myself. However, formulating a schedule is easier said than done when one is uncertain about what one’s “employer” might ask of him, and when. This left me somewhat on edge and uncomfortable—what can and can’t I do, and how much time might I be able to allot myself for any given thing? Of course after a few days I realized it didn’t much matter what I did; there was no schedule, and Claudio, from what I could ascertain, expected nothing from me but that I would get the photography done. Once I came to this realization I was finally able to relax and create a daily routine for myself. This of course was only to last a few days as my stay was only a week, but that simple plan that developed is the thing that kept me from falling into despair, kept me sane, and gave me some sense of joyful productivity from time to time. And video chatting with Huyen. That was one of the loveliest of pleasures.

Soon I will be in Kuala Lumpur working a regular six hours a day and probably struggling to fit all my projects into each. However, one day at a time!

Bit by bit!

Version 0.62 (Claudio the Clown)

05/04/19

Back at the cafe I’ve been breakfasting at since I’ve been on Koh Lanta. Kinda wish I was staying here rather than at Claudio’s (they also rent bungalows on their property), but if I think I’m spending a lot of money now, I don’t know what would be going through my head if I was staying here. Probably wouldn’t be enjoying these nice breakfasts. There is always a trade-off somewhere.

I can’t make up my mind about Claudio’s place, Claudio himself, and the “work” I’m doing to stay there free of charge. The photography work I’m doing for him is worth far more than the 120 baht—or $4—per night he is currently charging guests, and because I’m not even being fed, the difference in not paying for accomodation is being made up for in buying breakfast. The positive flip of that of course is that I’ve found this place with a/c to enjoy each morning, it’s work that I can say I’ve done, and really, it’s easy enough. However, his hostel is just not the place to be this time of year. With a/c only available in dorm rooms (common enough in more budget places) and only between the times of 7pm and 9am, there is nowhere to repair to to cool down besides a couple of tables near a few wall-mounted fans.

Claudio as well is beginning to become a bit of a pain in the ass. This mainly jovial Italian fucker when he speaks to me is almost always complaining about tenants past and present (I know that sounds contradictory: jovial but complaining). It makes me wonder why he bothers to run a hostel at all, because it doesn’t seem like he enjoys the work particularly. He does like talking, however…

He’s a genuinely likeable person. I just wonder if he’s lonely with his wife away on holiday. All he has for regular company is his layabout of a step-son, though he’s either sleeping or has his face in his phone, and his cat. (and honestly I think the cat makes better company.)

I was photographing the common area this morning before leaving for breakfast and Claudio was cleaning like he does every morning and was in a genuinely good mood….

*the journal trails off here. I suspect this was when I met and had a conversation with a woman, an American, who sat down near to me asking about other cafes in the area that would be open through the low season, as the one we were regularly visiting, and in which one of the bungalows she was staying, would be closing in a couple of weeks.**

[Later]
Lil swim today. Brief but meaningful texts with Huyen earlier. Went for a beach jog before the swim. Was nice enough. Just wanted to get out and kill some time. Can only sit for so long, and clothing oneself in anything more than a loincloth here is, frankly, madness. One would hope that a dip in the ocean would be refreshing and reinvigorating but as this is the tropics, it was anything but—just much too warm, like bathwater. Still pleasant enough, though. And fun.

Why it is that I take so long to find a routine that is satisfying is something that I should work to understand. I suppose it has not been long, only four days, but taken into consideration with the fact that I am here for just a week, that seems much too long. But, really, vacations are generally anything but routine. The vast majority go on vacation to escape from routine, from the mundanity of their daily existence. Of course I am not truly on vacation, and my life is currently not in any real, meaningful, definable routine for the most part. I am actively searching for routine though, as it is a comfort, and while I am becoming more comfortable with this mode of existence of mine currently, I am still not so comfortable to not crave some semblance of normalcy, read: routine, in my life.

Version 0.61 (The Heat, Daydreaming, and A Cave Tour)

05/02/19

Kinda thinking I don’t want to be on this island anymore. Two and a half days and I’m already done with the heat and the tropical sun. The sun, the sun.

THE SUN.

I don’t know what to say about it. From the confines of an air conditioned building it appears a thing of beauty and magnanimity, shining its light, illuminating the world, playing with the waves of the ocean, the leaves of the palm, pushing shadows slowly across the world as we spin around our axis, and the animals of the world moving in time to its rhythm. But we humans are stupid animals because we insist on being out and active even when the sun is at its zenith, and the temperatures are at their highest, stumbling and sweating through a hell of our own making. We’ve learned to combat this through fans and air-conditioning so that we may stick to the societal and cultural rhythm of our nine-to-five, or morning-straight-through-to-evening activities. Of course this is particularly true on vacation when one must wander out in all weathers and all temperatures because we must SEE things because otherwise whats the point of plotting out a time on one’s calendar and going on a vacation in a foreign land?

So, anyway, I am done with the heat, and the sweating through my clothing, and the being dirty, and the stinking, and being a stupid animal. All the same, while I’m here I should embrace being the stupid animal that I am and appreciate this opportunity. Besides, there’s no beating this opponent, and I certainly won’t be outsmarting him.

I’m day dreaming about traveling in the U.S. now, with Huyen, of showing her some of my favorite places during a summer. A cross country journey. D.C. and NYC of course, but also various places in Michigan: Kalamazoo, Grand Rapids, but most importanly Leelanau County and its peninsula, including Traverse City, Sleeping Bear Dunes, wine tasting at various vineyards, the many and secret beaches along Lake Michigan, and the many other smaller lakes. And then a few days in Chicago, several days in Milwaukee, and then there is a big gap until Colorado, then California with a drive down the coast from Washington state.

It’s too easy to day dream about cooler climates than it is to focus on the goings on here. I have a little bit of work with Claudio later this afternoon, and still have to do some photography around the hostel for him. I’ve been vacillating between wanting to leave early, and staying for the full week here. But the best thing I think is to just let everything go to plan. It’s sort of like trading; I don’t like to meddle with a trade once I’ve determined a setup and entered into that trade, though often it is very tempting.

Went on a cave tour yesterday. I was the only one, strangely enough, and was quite surprised the man even bothered to take me out. After the tour and at intervals during it I had intermittent convesation with my guide about his life. Simple stuff. How long have you lived here? Do you enjoy guiding? How long have you guided? The differences between here and the other islands? His life is of such a simple purity. Watching him walk through the forest and up the hill to the cave I observed such an ease and comfort in him, and a surefootedness, the balance of a cat, the familiarity with a place, a path, from having trod it so many hundreds of times. Something I don’t ever see in the denizens of a city, most of whom are usually in a rush to get somewhere. Occasionally he would pause after a particularly steep climb, the sweat beaded up on his forehead. He would just stand statue-like but for the expansion and contraction of his chest and his head turning, listening, peering into the jungle. Maybe he would ask a question of me, or point something out, like a cicada carapace, or a honey bee hive through the branches and leaves high up in a tree, hanging there like a curtain. On our way down after leaving the cave he lit up a cigarette and began smoking as we walked down the hill back to the village, not in a hurried way, but in a manner that was aligned with all of his actions up to this point, like he was reclining lazily in a porch-chair smoking easily, watching the world unfurl itself as it continually does, minute after minute, day after day, year after year, but all those moments just one singular moment always going going going, rolling into and out of itself and my tour guide simultaneously part of it but also beyond it, simply observing it. The double helix of a strand of DNA—life on one side, death on the other, inseparable, together all the time and for all time.

Version 0.60 (Simple, Life)

05/01/19

Why should life be more complicated than what the birds make of it?

This, a thought that has come to me watching a thumb-size one flit along the branches of a tree in the yard of a cafe I am enjoying a breakfast and coffee at.

Bananas in a bunch hang from a palm. How crazy and marvellous this world is for life, food, sustenance to display itself like it does. What a show! What a temptation! They actually don’t so much hang like one sees them displayed in the supermarket, but rather they stand erect, curved upwards like stacked umbrellas flipped on their heads, creating multiple tiers of cups around a central pole.

But that erectness!—one can’t get it out of his head, especially after glancing around the rest of the garden that is glowing, nay!, vibrating and shimmering with life. In a corner is a large shrub with four cylindrical, pointed, phallic looking flowers (not yet open) protruding from the tops of four stems, just begging for it. How everything seems to be sex. The whole natural world. Everything wet, damp, dripping, lush, conical or rod-shaped (even the leaves of certain plants), or open, inviting, softly curved and sensuous. All around me the stuff of life is asking for it, or doing it, or has recently done it.

A small beetle flies by, from shade into sunlight, vanishing back into shadow again. The theatre of life and death.

Perhaps life doesn’t need to be more complicated than the birds make it. Perhaps it really is as simple as nature makes it out to be. Sex, food, play. And because life is everywhere, so then is sex everywhere.*

Enjoyment. Enjoy it.

Amor.

 

 

*what came first, life, or sex? (this is rhetorical, of course, but comments will be happily read)

Version 0.59 (Day 1, Koh Lanta, Looking and Thinking)

04/30/19, Koh Lanta

I’m sitting at a small, round table inlaid with mosaic, on the patio of a cafe, sipping a cappuccino and nibbling the densest chocolate croissant I have ever had. I wanted to journal on the drive here in the mini-bus, exhausted and in a semi-comatoes state, but even had I been able to gather and coordinate my thoughts in a coherent manner, the near constant bouncing and banging around on the seat would have made it impossible.

It’s begun to rain in spurts, but that’s no surprise as we are on the cusp of the rainy season, if it has not already begun. Seems a poor time to be on Koh Lanta, but little could be done in that regard as I made work exchange plans: I’m receiving free accomodation for photographing the hostel I’m staying at. That’s a hard deal to turn down for someone trying to stay to a fairly tight, if undetermined, budget. So here I am writing a bunch of nothing and daydreaming.

Wanting to write. No brain function. Nothing to write. Just watching the happenings on the poorly paved street from the porch. Mainly just scooter traffic up and down, back and forth. Some people walking. Two guys in a scooter/jeep sort of contraption shouting at pedestrians, primarily women, asking or saying I have no idea what. Maybe looking to drive them around? Perhaps it’s some sort of taxi. By their appearance, though, one would not judge them as  particularly savory characters. Best to be avoided.

I am surprised by the number of muslims down here, though I suppose I ought not be considering the proximity to Malaysia. Claudio says they make better business partners than the Buddhists. Something about them being more practical-minded. I wouldn’t know anything about that, but I suppose he has more experience with it than I, being as he’s lived here for quite a long time now.

I brought my poncho with me in case the rain really decides to come down. So far it has been unnecessary, which is how being prepared works.

I was on a train last night which left Bangkok and arrived in Trang this morning. I went through my usual mental bout of what the fuck am I doing this for, writing a bit about it, but ultimately being stymied by the time of day (late evening) and the fact that the lights refused to work. Part of those misgivings I had I can blame on simply over-thinking things. The other part was missing Mozzie, while simultaneously wondering why I should bother persuing a relationship with someone off the American continent anyway, while also being annoyed by this relationship we have in the first place, however it may be defined, because it’s fucked my rather vague travel plans (I really should have just flown to Japan) and has caused me this stress (yet I wouldn’t change a thing).

Version 0.58 (Travel by Train for the “Experience”)

04/29/19

The train is bouncing along it’s track, swaying back and forth like a drunk struggling to stay upright. I’m finally leaving Bangkok, but it’s been almost an hour and we’re still not out of the city, and the air conditioning has stopped for some reason. And the fans too. I just looked at an older Thai gentleman the next sleeper bed over; he had removed his overshirt and gestured to a friend about the warmth and lack of a/c. The lights are out as well, and I can hardly see to write. It’s beginning to get quite stifling in here. Didn’t pay extra for an air conditioned car to not have one. Well, anyway in about fourteen or fifteen hours I’ll be in Trang (I hope). From there I take a mini-bus to Koh Lanta, another two or three hours further. Perhaps I should have just flown to Krabi; I’d likely be in Koh Lanta by this point.

The strange things we humans do for an “experience,” or to save some money….

Well at this point I can barely see to write, So far not a great experience, and far inferior to Vietnam. There may not have been AC outlets (for plugging in a laptop), but at least there were USB outlets so one could charge his phone or tablet. Not that I can’t go without…. The design of the sleeper cars is in my opinion preferable to that of the Thai trains too. They lent to a different, and for me preferable, kind of privacy, because even though I might share a room with up to three strangers, the room has a door, and is closed off to the rest of the train. Here it’s just bunks lining each side of a train car with a curtain as one’s only privacy feature. Sure, you don’t have to look at anyone else once you pull your curtain to, buttttt it’s just a curtain. For me, I prefer a room with a door. And now somebody is smoking. And I’m sweating. And the purpose of journaling was not to complain but this is beyond agravating.

[Later]
Watching an old man who boarded the train fifteen minutes ago. This frail old fellow, mummy-like, skin tight over his old bones so that he looks like an over-cooked turkey pulled out of an oven, his skin like something one could peel in flakes off of his flesh, probably in his eighties ambled on with his son. He reminds one of a little sparrow he’s so frail and tiny—thin arms and legs, large bulbous knuckles like pearl onions, a gold ring on one hand, a silver watch on the other large enough that, looking at him, one must wonder how he lifts his arm. His reaction to the car and the bed, or the bed having already been made seemed to be one of confusion or incomprehension. His phone went off earlier in his bag and his son had to alert him to this fact. The old man fumbles around in its pocket and pulls out pills, batteries to something like a medical device, and a comb, before finally getting to his phone—a very basic, black Nokia, which his son decrypted for him. He’s lying down now, a blanket pulled over him and the curtain drawn. It’s too easy to imagine in the morning his son pulling back the curtain only to find the old man dead….

However, it’s scenes like these that make taking a train or some other form of public transportation preferable to flying.